Cold War Cultural Diplomacy: Ukrainian Fashion’s Global Story
On March 18, 2025, Dr. Olha Korniienko, who is the recipient of the 2024 - 2025 Kolasky Visiting Research Fellowship from the Canadian Institute of Ukrainian Studies, University of Alberta and is hosted by CEES, presented her research on Ukrainian fashion during the Cold War. In her talk, she analyzed developments in the history of Ukrainian fashion and the role of Ukrainian diaspora in Canada and the United States in promoting, preserving, and expressing Ukrainian national identity through fashion. She discussed how exhibitions, fashion shows, and museums helped showcase Ukrainian design, whilst also paying attention to how tailors and designers reinterpreted traditional styles in everyday clothing, preserving national identity and cultural heritage.
The talk highlighted Ukraine's unexpected role as a hub for Soviet fashion, particularly through state-sponsored events like Expo 1967 in Montreal. In her talk, Dr. Korniienko paid special attention to the Soviet pavilion, where the Kyiv House of Fashion Design became one of the fair's most popular exhibits. She also shared striking images of the era's designs from the magazines. These included photographs of sleek wool coats and minimalist dresses with embroidered details. Talking about the role of diaspora communities, she highlighted how such designs not only drew attention of international audiences but also resonated with various Ukrainian groups.
Beyond high profile exhibitions, Dr. Korniienko also emphasized the everyday efforts that sustained Ukrainian identity. She spoke about Soviet-era designers in cities like Kyiv and Lviv, who found creative ways to incorporate traditional styles into their work, even as authorities promoted sharovarshchyna, which is a term for pseudo-folk costumes that are often criticized for being kitsch.
In closing, Dr. Korniienko connected her research to broader themes of cultural survival and diaspora engagement, underscoring how fashion can be both a political tool and a form of everyday resistance.
